"The salad is delicious" "Mmm...delicious...just like you..."

The surprise prolonged stay in Tuscany, in order to stay at "Ostello 5 Terre" in Manrola, within Cinque Terre National Park, was for good good reason. I think my two days in Lucca prepared me for the slower pace of life by the sea, prepared me to fully soak in my four days with the ocean on one side of me, mountains and vineyards on the other. Impossible to capture in words, both the beauty of my surroundings, and also the beauty in connecting with others stands out from these four days, as well as a feeling of finding my travel groove once again. Of course, the quirks of being solo-traveller-Liz are always added to the mix. I experienced a great deal of sadness upon leaving today, and imagined that if reservations didn't need to be made a week in advance, I would have stayed a bit longer at my little by-the-sea version of paradise. "They" say a picture is worth a thousand words (in my case, it's likely worth at least two thousand):

The village of Manarola, at sunset

Yup, that was my home for the past 4 days. Cinque Terre is a National Park along the northwest coast (Ligurian Sea) of Italy, and includes five landmark small coastal villages (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso). A 9km trail links these villages, and there is also a large network of trails through the surrounding hilly countryside (largely vineyards and olive groves). Rugged coastline, lush vineyards, colourful villages perched on cliffs, turquoise sea. Absolutely stunning.

I had been anticipating this hike for months, and so on my first full day, I woke up in good time in order to set out. I hopped down off my bunkbed, rummaged through my moneybelt for the key to my padlock... Nope...Looked on the shelf beside my bed...Nope...Wearing pyjamas, the only items not locked inside my locker were my novel, cellphone, creditcard, and passport: not exactly the necessities for a day of strenuous hiking. "Liz, is it possible that you have managed to stash all 3 of your locker keys in various places INSIDE your locker?" Entirely possible. Determined to laugh at myself, rather than stress about whether or not my hike would actually be able to happen (I need my shoes...camera...bra...), I visited the wonderful Niccola at the front desk, and was promptly handed a giant pair of bolt cutters, with a smile and a reassuring, "This happens all the time". I was on my way.

Bolt cutters and a broken lock

The entire coastal trail, including two substantial (substantially steep and substantially gorgeous) detours took a good 8 hours, including a stop to lie on a fairly secluded (and fairly nude) beach and go for a swim. Alyssa, from Boston, who I had met the night before at dinner, offered to walk with me to the start of the trail, and then decided, as we were immersed in conversation, that she would just come along for the hike (despite the fact that she had done the entire thing yesterday)! Alyssa and I had met trying to figure out how to work our 5 minute shower coins, and conversation was easy, fun, intense, and a bit more boisterous than is normal for me. ;) We exchanged stories about travel and romance as we climbed the steep hillside at the start of our trail and passed workers harvesting grapes; I was grateful for her vibrant company. After climbing a few hundred metres, the view, surrounded by vineyards, with the bright blue sea below, was breathtaking. A sense of being on top of the world...

We met Oli, from Britain, about two hours into the hike, and he joined us for the next several hours, providing sharp wit, genuine kindness, and the ability to scale rock faces in order to pick the fruit of the prickly pear cactus for these two North American women. In between the villages of Corniglia and Vernazza, Alyssa felt moved to follow a sign that led off the main trail ("Beach. 20 minutes" - if it's 20 minutes straight down, how long will it take to get back up?), which led us to the aforementioned swimming spot. The water was gorgeous, clear, cool, and my fear of jellyfish was heightened with each moment that passed (and so I didn't last for too long in the water). When we reached Vernazza (Village 4 of 5), Oli and Alyssa opted to stay for dinner, rather than complete the last portion of the trail. I was truly enjoying their company, and also noticed my intuition telling me to take some time for me, reminding me of how long I had been looking forward to this hike (with the knowledge that the weather forecast for the next two days was iffy). I was also pretty sure there was sexual tension between Oli and Alyssa, confirmed by an email I received from Alyssa the following day..... :)

Alyssa and me overlooking the village of Vernazza

And so, I walked this final (and also most strenuous and rugged) 2 hour stretch on my own at dusk, taking time to pause at beautiful lookouts, filled with gratitude for my surroudings and the gift of being present there. At this time of day the trail was much less busy, and the time on my own was absolutely filling-up for this spirit. As if on cue, the rain started just as I arrived in Monterosso. After grabbing a quick panini, I took the train back to the hostel, legs feeling like mush, and spirit filled to the brim.  As I tucked myself into bed that night, in pulling down the covers, what did I find, but a small silver key.... :)

My other days in Cinque Terre occured at a much slower pace, and yet there are still far too many memories to possibly include here.  Memories such as...

...Meeting Bilbo, from South Africa, just hours before I left for Cinque Terre: enjoying her effervescence, humour, and authenticity, and wishing we had met hours earlier...

...Arriving by train from inland: after being in a tunnel for a while, suddenly emerging and seeing nothing but blue sea and blue sky to the west - the train tracks were literally on the last sliver of land before the water began.

...Receiving the jellyfish warning from Niccola at the front desk upon my arrival: I was assured assured that a sting from "the purple kind" wouldn't kill me, but would perhaps make me feel like I was going to drown from the pain. After getting settled in, and then making my way down to the water, I found myself amidst many other tourists, who also were wanting to swim and thus were peering nervously into the clear water. I joined forces with an American family who were watching for jellies with carefulness, the clarity of the water allowing us to see straight to the bottom - white rocks, many schools of fish, and yes, the occasional jelly. Looking out for one another, the routine was that everyone would look in the water carefully, and when the coast was clear, someone would jump in, and then get out immediately.  Repeat for the next person. I was successful in 4 jumps/rapid swims back the edge - pure refreshment, and an adrenaline rush, all at the same time.

...Three breathtaking sunsets: these were all completely different, in terms of colour, cloud formation, and reflection on the water. Not normally visible during the day, the setting sun lights up the coast (French) across this huge bay, and watching the sun sink into its hills is truly incredible.

Day 1

Day 3

Day 4

...Dinner at "Trattoria dal Billy" on Saturday night: This is a popular local spot, one which normally requires a reservation. My decision to take myself out for a nice meal was spontaneous, and I decided to show up right at 6pm, figuring the real Europeans wouldn't be having dinner until at least 7:30. I made my way onto the patio, to the only seat without a "reserved" sign, and which also happened to have a view of the sunset over the sea. After sitting for about 15 minutes, Eduardo peeked his head around the corner, "Do you have a reservation?"  I looked around at the empty tables around me (I was still the only one at the restaurant) and assured him that I would eat quickly.  "No, no, take your time.  You are lucky, we are full!  Mama Mia!" he exclaimed, trying to appear frustrated, though clearly somewhat amused or intrigued at me, as he made his way back up the stairs. And so I sat on my solitary patio, watching the glorious sunset, drinking local Cinque Terre wine, and eating the best meal I have had in Italy yet - a fresh spinach pasta with mussels and zucchini.  The meal was enhanced by the presence of Eduardo, now fully enjoying the company of this solitary North American woman sitting on his patio:
"How is your salad?" (peering around the corner once again so that I could only see his head)
"Delicious"
"Mmm...Delcious.  Just like you"

mmmm.....

...My two Australian roomates, and the night that one of them didn't come home: The next evening, I heard the details of her love-making with an apparently gorgeous Italian man, and learned of another context in which "Mama Mia" is exclaimed in Italian culture. We decided that this really should be included in the tourist books: "Don't be alarmed if..."

...The fabulous Ostello (Hostel) 5 Terre, with bolt cutters at the ready, delicious organic food, a fabulous social/eco conscience, and the warm and gentle team of Niccola and Riccardo working the front desk. This morning, when I walked down the stairs with my sheets, ready to check out, Riccardo looked forlorn: "It is a sad day". He then told another guest that I had been "the nicest guest of the week". It seems possible that Riccardo has a little crush on me, as I left today with his personal email address... :)

Last night, as I watched my last sunset in Manarola, there was a woman sitting alone, quite close to me, also watching the sunset.  I felt drawn in by her somehow, interested in her story; we exchanged a friendly smile before she left. Later that night, back at the hostel, we crossed paths in the hallway, and exchanged another warm smile, recognizing each other from our lookout spot. Finally, this morning, she was sitting alone when I entered the dining hall for breakfast, and so I asked to sit with her. I felt an instant connection with Reidun-Helen, from Bergen, Norway, as we began to talk about the experience of traveling alone. She mentioned her painting several times, and so I inquired about this: "Well, I paint just for me, not to sell them or anything.  I actually use art for..therapy.  I am an art therapist". Most familiar with the hesitancy she said this with (the same way that I would say, "I am a music therapist" when sitting at breakfast with a stranger at 8am), I laughed, said, "Of course you are!" and explained. My intuition was certainly correct - a true kindred spirit.

As I travel more and more on my own, I am learning a lot about balance in many different forms. Over this past week, I have been reminded of the importance of my solitary time (with the desire to really soak in this and embrace it) while also acknowledging that I thrive on deep, meaningful, and intense connection with others.  I am discovering how to balance both of these, while listening to my intuition, so that I can know when I need one or the other.  I have been blessed with so many opportunities for both.

Oh yes, and I am writing this from Rome!  More about that another time....

I will leave you with a link to a beautiful video about solitude that the lovely Jackie, from Chicago (who I met in Florence), shared with me: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7X7sZzSXYs
I am getting better at this (solitude, that is).
And, I send my love. xo