changing seasons

Naples grew on me, as I was told it might. :) Wednesday morning, I had a chance to wander the city before my train to Bern. In broad daylight I felt much more confident in my exploring, and I found myself being pulled in by the chaos and excitement, mesmerized a bit by the constant flurry of activity, and enjoying the people-watching very much.  Naples was a thriving center centuries ago, and this is readily apparent in the grandeur of its architecture. The port and view across the Bay of Naples, and also the view of Mount Vesuvius, were also lovely reprieves from the busy city streets.

So as not to disappoint, and as Italian men have been a theme in recent entries, I have one last story to share (I share this with the disclaimer that I have met countless Italian men who do not fit the stereotype that I am reinforcing through these stories...but the stereotype reinforcing makes for great blog posts, no?)...

So. Whilst wondering about Naples on Wednesday morning, I decided to buy myself a sweater, preparation for the rest of my travels further north. Saw a cardigan in a window for 15 euro. Perfect. And so I entered, and was greeted by Franko, age 49: "Ohhhhh, Elizabeth, you are top-model!  Yes!  Top-model!  Bellissima!" (and so on)  This went on and on (and on), as Franko hovered around me, wanted to help do up the buttons on my sweater (and so on). "When do you return to Naples?  You are top-model!  I think of you. You think of me".  (Just give me the damn sweater, Franko.)  Our interaction ended when Franko pointed to his cheek, and asked, "Kiss?" (as is culturally quite acceptable). One cheek kiss, and when I turned my head to kiss the other, Franko went in for the lips...

And with that, I said farewell to Italy! :)

Fabienne, Couch Surfing host extraordinaire, met me at the station in Bern, when my train arrived Wednesday night after the eight hour journey from Naples. What a treat - after a month in Italy with eight different arrivals at eight different train stations, disoriented, trying to make my way to a hostel on my own - to be met and taken under someone's wing immediately. Within minutes, I knew I was in good hands for my stay in Bern.  Warm, thoughtful, generous, full of life, Fabi and I hit it off right away.

Fabi and her boyfriend Stefan live in a "community" in Bern with 18 others, aged 1-50. The 20 of them share a kitchen (and also food and cooking/cleaning responsibilities), a living room, music room, and a yard. Then, there are 5 floors with 4 bedrooms on each, as well as additional living rooms and bathrooms. I was so warmly welcomed by each person I met there, and was inspired and somewhat enthralled by this living arrangement. A real challenge to the typical Western values of independence and personal-space, I felt this community had struck a beautiful balance between shared space and privacy.  20 bikes lined up outside, 20 chairs at the dining room table, the back door always unlocked, and guests are always welcome.  And there was piano!  So remarkable.  Fabi and Stefan, and also their good friends Oli and Dani who I also hung with a great deal, truly embody the community's values within themselves - they were beyond generous.  It was such an honour to stay there for three nights...

Some highlights from my time in Bern include...

...Visiting the beautiful Rosengarten (Rose Garden) with Fabi on Thursday morning before she headed to work, and gazing over the city centre from the lookout point at this garden:

View of Bern's City Centre from the Rosengarten

...Wandering the city centre with Oli, a gentle soul currently studying philosophy, and discussing politics and philosophy as we visited the baerenpark (the bear has been the city's mascot since the 12th century, and Bern stays true to its heritage by keeping a bear, or a family of bears, in captivity at all times...In 2009, a "park" was built to replace the less appealing bear "pit"), and the Munster Cathedral (a gothic masterpiece).

Papa Bear: Baerenpark

...The Shnit Film Festival, which Fabi, Stefan, and Dani and I attended both Thursday and Friday nights, viewing quirky international short films (and falling asleep, due to the 11:30 start time on Friday night). Artistically and culturally speaking, there is apparently always something going on in Bern!

...Chestnuts galore: Chestnuts are in season right now, and I named Friday "Chestnut Day", as it included chestnut yogurt, chestnut purree with whipped cream (soooo good) and roasted chestnuts from a little street stand...mmmm....



Fabi and I eat roasted chestnuts while waiting for the bus...

...Hiking to the top of the Gurten "Moutain" in Bern, with Fabi and her sister Monique. More of a "big hill" than a mountain, the Bernese call this their "house-mountain" (the direct translation from the German). It was a foggy view of the city from the top... 

The foggy view from the top of Gurten Mountain, Bern



...Fall colours: When I arrived in Bern, though I knew the temperature would be significantly lower than Naples had been that morning, I hadn't thought about the fact that the leaves would of course be turning (and the last several hours of my train journey had been in the dark). Sitting talking to Fabi, Stefan, and Dani upon my arrival, I suddenly asked, "Have the leaves changed?", and Stefan and Dani went out to the backyard, and brought in an assortment of vibrantly coloured leaves.  Yes, I miss the Meditteranean a wee bit, but I have always loved autumn, and I think I would be disappointed to go directly from summer to winter. The colours are gorgeous here. 

Culturally speaking, the trip from Naples to Bern in one day was an interesting experience. There is a part of me that misses all the things about southen Italy that felt exotic - certainly, the goal of my travels is not to remain "comfortable" at all times, and learning about, and soaking in different cultures is so important to me - this journey is about much more than "sight-seeing".  That being said, culturally, life in Switzerland feels a bit more homey, and that feels somewhat comforting right now. I feel a bit guilty about this, but perhaps it is well timed with my trip and with my inward journey. Three times on this trip, I have spontaneously thought to myself, "I could live here": in Vienna, Austria, in Lucca, Italy, and now in Bern.

Yesterday afternoon, I said a goodbye that felt far too soon to my newfound community in Bern (although not before trying the slackline in the backyard), and took a gorgeous trainride to Lauterbrunnen, a little town surrounded by Alps (very close to Interlaken, which is the city name more people are familiar with). I have a breathtaking view of the Jungfrau, the peak known as the "top of Europe" at over 4000 metres.  And, I will close this post by saying that I spent the day today hiking (a full 8 hours, including a 1400m climb) with Dani, from the Bernese community (he took the train to meet me here today). Incredible.  A bit of a cliff-hanger, I know (literally and metaphorically, even) - you'll have to wait for the next post!

Good night.

Sending my love xo