When in the very initial stages of imagining this Europe trip, I dreamt of seeing an opera at a real-live-European-opera-house! Tonight, La Traviata at the Prague State Opera, did not disappoint. Walking into the opulent/right-out-of-my-music-history-text theatre was an incredible "pinch me" moment. Without a doubt the most beautiful live venue I've ever been in, the theatre was built in the late 1800s and the history in the space provided an incredibly vitality in and of itself. Despite our respective backgrounds rich in music history courses and exams, neither Sarah or I could remember the plot (which we wikipedia-ed ahead of time, in fear that the surtitles would be in Czech only), nor could we hum the familiar tune from Act I ahead of time (though now, it's definitely running through my head over and over - refer to subject line. The staging was done in black & white in an almost minimalistic fashion, and, despite a few panicky moments where the chorus and the orchestra were not together, it was a great show, and the soprano & lead role, performed by Jana Sibera, was out of this world. Gorgeous. Opera in Europe - I can handle this.
Yesterday, Sarah and I ventured to the town of Kutna Hora with two of our roommates, Fredreike & Irene from Holland. An indication that I (we) are getting "old", we imagined these two young women to be in their early 20s, but were surprised to learn that they were 16 and 17, entering their final year of high school! Two quote Irene, "Yes, but we are not your normal 16 year olds". No kidding. They were such lovely company for the hour train trip, and then our wander around the town. The most famous tourist attraction in Kunta Hora is the Sedlec Ossuary, a small Catholic chapel, that contains the remains of at least 40 000 people - their bones have been used to form decorations - chandeliers, and the like. Highly bizarre and eerie, and not without opportune moments for Hamlet-inspired photos. Check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sedlec_Ossuary if this sort of thing interests you. :) We also wandered around two beautiful cathedrals there, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage sights - the gothic "Cathedral of St. Barbara" and the gothic-Baroque "Cathedral of Our Lady". The downtown section of the little town had lovely winding cobblestone streets, and breathtaking views of rolling hills and church spires.
Last night, an eclectic group from the hostel got together to make a traditional garlic soup - it was a fantastic evening with this community here, and the soup is something I will certainly endeavour to re-create at home! I'm loving that this hostel attracts people not only from all over the world, but also of all ages. Our cooking group last night included individuals from at least 7 countries, and ranging in age from 16-65. I enjoyed talking last night with a woman from England, in her 60s, about the reality of being a woman travelling alone, and the struggle to navigate staying safe while resisting being overly cautious in this world that really still is "a man's world" and where the media propagates fear. This morning I ate breakfast with a criminology post-doc from France who recently spent time researching in Montreal, and who discussed his experience of feeling discriminated against by the Quebecois. The list of fascinating conversations goes on...
Sarah and I had a relaxed day of reading/journalling in a beautiful park with a breathtaking view of the city, and enjoyed traditional Czech fare for dinner - beer, dumplings, smoked meat (yes, I ate meat), and cabbage (read: greasy deliciousness). Tomorrow, we leave for our next stop in Czech, a town which Lonely Planet describes as "Bohemia's prettiest spa town". :) I'll keep you posted.
In an effort to get my body truly off of North American time, I am signing off, singing...
Dahhh....dah dah dah dah dah dah dah dah DAHHHH...
(trying to get La Traviata in your heads too!)
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